It is only 20 km from home and we drive Victor Harbor regularly, but this visit was extra special. It was the last week of the school holidays during which the Cockle Train locomotive was the steam driven 207. A day return trip on the train had long been on our outing list, so with everything aligned, we left home for Goolwa station.
The Cockle Train
Dating back to 1854, the Cockle Train travels along the oldest steel railed railway in Australia between Goolwa and Victor Harbor. It is operated by SteamRanger Heritage Railway which also runs heritage trains at Strathalbyn and Mount Barker.
Departure
When we arrived, a few groups of parents with excited kids were already on the station platform, tickets in hand, waiting for the train. 15 minutes before departure we heard the distant sound of the train’s horn as it was leaving the depot and approaching the first of six level crossings on the way to the station. Each crossing prompted an increasingly louder blast until finally the dazzling headlight of the 207 appeared as it rounded the corner at the old Chart Room.
Hissing and steaming the locomotive with its four carriages in tow slowed to a halt at the platform, allowing eager passengers to select their preferred carriage and board.
Entering our dark green and cream carriage took us a step back to a bygone age of rail travel. Solid wood partitions topped with elegant stainless steel and webbed luggage racks separated a series of booths each capable of accommodating four adults.
With a blast of the guard’s whistle and a short ‘toot’ from the engine we started to move. Although we were in the rear carriage, we heard the increasing repetition of the ‘puff puff puff’ of the engine as it strained to climb the first short incline through town.
On the way
From the station the track followed a long right hand curve until it crossed the main road to Victor Harbor, stopping two opposing queues of obedient cars. As the train creaked round the curving corners, we were bounced up and down and rocked side to side, with a concerning clunk every few of seconds.
After another two level crossings, announcing themselves with a ‘ding ding ding’ and a ‘toot’, we reached the start of a long straight down to Middleton.
As a child I was told never to stick my head out of a train window. The temptation of our open carriage window was too much to ignore. Looking forward along the line of carriages, the only evidence of the locomotive was the stream of black coal smoke wafting past me. The smell immediately took me back to my childhood, huddling round the family coal fire during cold Scottish winter days.
As we passed the Middleton Tavern, we came to a halt to pick up passengers at the station on the other side of the level crossing. We caught the first glimpse of the aquamarine ocean over the tops of the houses, a view that opened up to the wide expanse of Encounter Bay as we rattled past the Basham Beach whale lookout and onwards to Port Elliot.
More passengers await us on the Port Elliot station platform. A mother with three children boarded and sat in the opposite booth. The boy was impressed with my ‘big camera’ and his mother asked if I am a professional – ‘yes, let’s just say I am a retiring professional’.
On the final section, we followed the contours along the sand dunes to the left. Looking down at the beach, we returned a wave to a couple walking their three dogs, their golden labrador taking great delight from running in and out of the shallow rolling waves. Further along a group of teenagers were too engrossed in their game of beach cricket to notice the train.
Arrival
The long gentle curve towards Victor Harbor followed the line of the beach until we reached the wetlands and the Hindmarsh River bridge. Arriving into the station, the track crossed the last of the 24 level crossings. With a final ‘ding ding ding’ and ‘toot toot toot’ the train slowed and stopped at the platform. We alighted to a throng of passengers eager to board the train back to Goolwa.
Apart from our return journey, there was one last highlight of the trip. With the 207 at the wrong end of the train and facing the wrong way, it had to be turned round. This involved uncoupling the locomotive, and reversing it to the turntable. A quick walk from the platform to the turntable got me into position to photograph the engine as it reversed and moved forward onto the turntable. Seeing this 90 tonne locomotive being swivelled round was a sight to behold. As the locomotive reversed back to be coupled with the carriages and its return to Goolwa, we left the station and crossed the road for a welcome coffee.
Granite Island
It had been more than twelve months since we last walked round Granite Island, so we were looking forward to the exercise of crossing the causeway and circumnavigating the track. By this time, the wind had increased, turning what had started off as a glorious Fleurieu Peninsula autumn day into cooler conditions. The causeway caught the south west wind until we neared the lee of the island. Choosing to walk anti-clockwise to avoid climbing the stairs, we followed the gently climbing track to the first of the magnificently shaped granite rocks. On the way, I stopped to take a photograph of three ladies who were clearly having a hilarious get-together. I readily accepted their offer of taking a shot of us sitting on the bench under a photogenic sprawling tree.
Reaching the western end of the island the wind peaked once more – the tip of the Bluff being the only land between us and the Antarctic. As we turned along the south edge, our anti-clockwise direction was vindicated with the wind in our backs blowing us along.
We paused to admire a few gulls managing to maintain a stationary hover, despite the strong wind, while searching for an appetising snack.
Reaching the eastern end, we arrived at the stairs, easier to descend than climb up. At the bottom, our stomachs reminded us that it was lunchtime, so we took advantage of the island cafe. My choice of peppered steak pie was very disappointing, but K enjoyed her butter chicken pie.
As we set off for the causeway, the horse drawn tram arrived to disgorge and reload its passengers. Dating back to 1894, the Victor Harbor Tramway is one of the town’s popular tourist attractions. Before we arrived back on the mainland, the tram overtook us and terminated for what seemed to be its final trip of the day (probably due to the high winds).
A hot jam donut compensated for the unappetising pie before we took our time strolling round the Ocean Street shops while we waited for our 3.45 return train departure.
After its arrival from Goolwa and once the 207 was turned and reversed back, I was particularly interested in the locomotive being coupled to the carriages in preparation for returning to Goolwa. By this time, the day had turned overcast and cool, but the change did not dampen our enjoyment of another 30 minutes in the train and our Victor Harbor outing.
Our next adventure
Our next adventure is a visit to Scotland via Norway. Six months ago, we booked our flight with Emirates through Dubai. As it became evident that the America/Iran war was not going to end any time soon, we became increasingly nervous about our travel plans. As a contingency, we booked an alternative flight with Singapore Airlines. This turned out to be a good decision as we were able to cancel Emirates at no cost.
As a result, we are now looking forward to visiting Norway for the first time and our subsequent stay in Scotland to catch up with relatives and friends. It may be some time before I post again, but I will endeavour to let you know how our overseas adventure is going. Thank you again for reading.
6 Responses
Norway would be fantastic Martin and not via Dubai – normally go via Emeritus too 🫠
Thank you Tony. I hope to share soem photos while we are away.
Love the pics and writing Martin. Been so long. Didn’t realise you’d moved to SA not far from David’s sister. We were there in March. Lovely part of the world. Best of luck on your Scotland journey. We hope to get there in a year or so, hopefully when world travel becomes a bit more predictable 😉. Peace be with you.
Katherine, thank you very much for commenting. Yes its has been a long time – I will send you an email with an update.
Doing the tourist thing in your own back yard is fun. Can connect with everything you wrote about this outing as we have had the same experience ( due to odd circumstances 🙂) The only difference was it poured with rain the day we went and I rode back on my bike.
Enjoy Norway
I thought you would relate to this post, despite the rain and return cycle. Thanks, very much looking forward to Norway (and the unexpected visit to Copenhagen).