Our ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ journey from Bergen to Oslo marked the penultimate leg of our Scandinavian trip. This involved a train, a coach, a cruise and another two trains, an experience that was all it was reputed to be.
Bergen
An overnight stay in Bergen was necessary for us to start the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ journey to Oslo, starting at the Bergen railway station at 08:30 the following morning. Our booked hotel was adjacent to the station and close to the Bryggen, the main attraction we wanted to visit. Unfortunately, it was raining when we checked into the hotel, but despite this, we ventured out on the fifteen minute walk to the dock area where we were met with the inevitable host of tourists.
The view of Bryggen (see header) is one which most people associate with Bergen – it is World Heritage listed comprising a row of coloured wooden buildings of similar shape. It is one of North Europe’s oldest port cities on the west coast of Norway dating back to the 12th century. We spent a bit of time and money on souvenirs, before wandering back to the hotel to dry out and for a light snack.
Train to Voss
After breakfast set in a spectacular dining room, we walked the short distance to catch the train to Voss, the first of five stages of the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ experience. The Oslo bound train took us through a number of short and long tunnels and across lush green countryside during the one hour journey. At Voss, it seemed that the train emptied of all its passengers, who spread out in all directions, including the two coaches that were to take us on the next stage.
Coach to Gudvangen
During our cruise I had been disappointed that we had not seen the sort of waterfalls featured in travel brochures. During the coach journey, the landscape gradually changed to trees clinging to vertical rocky surfaces and snow melt water streaming down from the cliff tops.
We arrived in Gudvangen to rows of coaches and throngs of tourists waiting at the terminals where the cruise boats dock. It was raining and 14 degrees, not the best welcome to one of the most picturesque fjords. However, we were surrounded by magnificent waterfalls, everyone worthy of a photograph!
We had to hang around for three hours due to the earlier boat being booked out. However, the bonus was that the crowds dispersed onto the boat or into the coaches, leaving the place relatively tranquil with plenty of space in the café for a coffee. Coincidentally, the rain cleared.
Boat to Flåm
The two-hour cruise on the Aurlandsfjorden to Flåm was breathtaking. We sailed silently in the electric boat between vertical cliffs on both sides, spotting isolated houses at water level and perched high on the mountain sides, not to mention numerous waterfalls. We were among the first to board and managed to score a position at the front of the vessel with 180 degree views as we slid through the water. The downside of that was the cool strong wind which we eventually gave in to by moving inside for a hot chocolate.
When we approached Flåm, we were astonished to see a giant-sized cruise ship spoiling an otherwise lovely landscape. We realised that this fjord is open to the ocean.
Train to Myrdal
The Flåm railway rises from sea level to an elevation of 867m with an average gradient of 5.5%. With panoramic views of the fjords and snow capped mountains, it is considered one of the world’s most picturesque rail journeys. We were not disappointed. Taking one hour, the Railway is 20 km long through 20 tunnels, 18 of which were hand built during the railway’s 17 year construction.
About half way through the journey, the train stopped close to the waterfall at Kjosfossen where we were allowed off. In the middle distance next to a ruined house, a lady in red was dancing to music that was piped across for us to hear. We were so close to the raging torrent that we were quickly soaked from the spray.
It was cold when we arrived at Myrdal, not surprising due to its elevation. We had about 30 minutes to wait in the warmth of the station cafe for the arrival of the Bergen/Oslo train for the final stage of the journey.
Oslo
At 5 hours, this was the longest stretch of the journey, one we were not looking forward to due to the midnight Oslo arrival time. However, during the first few hours we climbed to 1222m above sea level at Finse, the highest railway station in Northern Europe, above the snow line. It was special to see the landscape mostly covered in snow and the occasional loch still partly frozen. This kept us awake, but by the time we descended to sea level, we were rather weary and half asleep, helped by darkness falling (for the first time since the start of our cruise).
The hotel was a 15 minute walk from the station. Our cases had arrived earlier by a delivery service, so, thankfully, we didn’t have to drag them with us at that time of night. This was the first of our two-night stay in Oslo, which I will report on in the next post.
5 Responses
Martin. -great trip I ve been Bergen Flam Oslo too loved it !!
Thanks Tony, yes, I would happily do it again
Stunning photos.
Thank you Ruth
Fabulous. Thanks for the travel commentary and photos. Love the waterfalls too.