With a lengthy drive to get to Stoke on Trent in England, we left Edinburgh at 08:00. Making good time with quieter than expected roads, we arrived at our first stop, Gretna Green for souvenir shopping and morning coffee.
Scotland into England
Famous for couples eloping from England to get married, Gretna is very close to the border between Scotland and England, so we were soon on ‘foreign’ soil. This trip was to meet up with friends who live on a canal boat in which we were anticipating a quiet canal cruise. Our rendezvous was to be near Gloucester, with a plan to cruise to Sharpness (more disappointment to come). Since it was a long drive of 560 miles (900 km), we decided to break the journey near Stoke on Trent. With a warm day and a heat wave forecast, it was a relief to get into shorts and T shirts.
Oakley House
You will have noted that I haven’t described any of the various places where we have stayed. However, our accommodation near Stoke on Trent is quite memorable and worthy of a few words.
The three storey ‘Oakley House’ is typical of the style for the area. The creaking floors, low, ‘brow bashing’ door heights and large rooms gave the place a whole lot of character. On arrival we were welcomed by our host and shown to our room. There was a small fridge with a complimentary can of beer and Coca Cola and a small bottle of fresh milk. A complimentary bottle of bubbles was also delivered to our room, which we promptly opened and drank in the garden. The climax, however, was breakfast the next day. Everything served was home-made, including the bread, croissants and preserves – a simply delicious breakfast before we set off.
Upton on Severn
Before starting our journey south, we drove to a small nearby village to get some exercise on a circular walk in a reserve called Parrots Drumble. The figure of eight track was overgrown in places – apart from the stinging nettles, biting insects and lack of birds, it was a great way to start our drive, navigating the Birmingham motorway network, to Upton on Severn where our friends were moored. On meeting them, they were bearers of not so good news – their boat was stranded due to waiting for a spare part to repair their engine, so no canal cruise.
We sat outside a local pub supping a cold beer overlooking the river, a very pleasant way to spend time chatting. We agreed that they would pick us up at our accommodation for an early evening outing, so we drove on to check in. By the time we arrived the temperature had risen to the top end of comfort levels. The accommodation was in the attic space above a garage. It was very modern and clean, but with metal sloping ceilings, it was very hot.
After a short rest, we were picked up and drove to Purton, located on the canal that eventually leads to Sharpness. The short walk to our destination, the ship graveyard, was a very pleasant stroll along the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal towpath.
Purton Ship Graveyard
Purton Ship Graveyard is the site where a number of ships were purposefully beached during the 1950s to stabilise the banks of the River Severn. At this point the canal and the river run very close and the concern about the separating land being breached led to the idea of running a mix of steel, concrete and timber hulls aground. These soon filled with water and silt to form the planned barrier.
Being a lovely warm evening, we stopped at a local pub for an alfresco dinner and a couple of beers. Having become more of a wine drinker, I started to enjoy the forgotten flavours and textures of locally brewed English beers.
Slimbridge Wetland Centre
After a very hot and sleepless night, we woke early and went for a stroll in the cool of the morning to the local church and graveyard before meeting our friends to go to the Slimbridge Wetland Centre. This centre covers a large area, accommodating a wide variety of wetland birds and insects. The temperature rose to 33 degrees, so we took our time wandering through the various areas specialising in such species as dragonflies, flamingos, swans and geese. The centre featured a couple of the largest bird hides we had ever come across. Inevitably, K and I took quite a few photographs – for me it was a great opportunity to understand the challenges associated with bird photography.
By lunchtime, we were both feeling the effects of the hot weather (strangely, 33 degrees in England seemed hotter than the same temperature at home). Agreeing to meet up later, we went back to the accommodation for lunch and a rest.
The late afternoon outing was to the Sharpness docks. This busy port area marks the junction of the canal and the river. We checked out the spot where we would have turned around had we been cruising before driving to the Ship Inn for a couple of beers and dinner next to the Stroudwater Canal.
When we were dropped off at our accommodation, it was time to say farewell to our friends with the possibility of meeting them again in Australia when they make a return visit.
To Harrogate
Our break in the journey back to Edinburgh was near Harrogate in Yorkshire. After an issue with our AirBnB, we booked a country pub, the Wellington Inn. The motorways were free of disruption so we made good time, stopping at RSPB Fairburn Ings for a wander. This reserve was created from the old coal mine spoils and collapsed land forming lagoons and wetlands. We walked 6 km in one direction to find Kingfishers, without success and then 5 km in another direction to find Spoonbills, again without success. By the time we arrived back at the Visitor Centre, I was exhausted, partially relieved with a welcome ice cream.
When we arrived at the Inn, we had a snack in our room and, what was for the last time, we sat outside for a couple of pints.
Brimham Rocks
After another hot night, we woke early to the sound of thunder and rain. A full English breakfast set us up for the day’s journey back to Edinburgh. Our first stop was only half an hour away at Brimham Rocks. We parked the car in the low clouds, but we set off confident that it was not going to rain. This was a good call, as it cleared into a clear sunny morning.
Brimham Rocks were formed from millions of years of land movement, ice, rain and wind, creating weird shapes, some of which resemble animals. We spent about 90 minutes wandering through the landscape, enjoying the sunshine and, of course, taking numerous photos.
Kiplin Hall and Gardens
Our next stop was Kiplin Hall and Gardens, a 400 year old property that was owned by only four families, all related by blood and/or marriage. The last remaining family member, Bridget Talbot donated the hall and estate to a charity in order to preserve them for future generations to enjoy. We wandered through the house learning about life in years gone by and strolled through the gardens.
Back in Scotland
The weather for the final stage of our journey deteriorated as we approached the Scottish border – the temperature dropped and it rained heavily. However, we arrived back at my daughter’s for dinner, after which we washed some clothes and packed ready for an early departure the next day. K was catching a bus to Glasgow to board the Waverley, the world’s last seagoing paddle steamer, and cruise to Largs and I was picking up my son for a boys’ weekend away.
The Hill House
It was great to spend time with him and I managed to tick off another place on my ‘to visit’ list – the Charles Rennie Mackintosh designed house – the Hill House in Helensburgh. This beautifully designed house and interior is currently covered by a weatherproof ‘box’ while the external walls are being repaired and restored. The visit more than lived up to my expectations.
The weekend ended with me returning my son to Edinburgh and driving through to Largs to be reunited with K for the next final few days away, this time in Galloway.
5 Responses
Again, a most interesting blog on your travels.
Heard the UK was having a heat wave, was wondering how you fared.
The only heatwave we had was during our few days in England, as per this post.
More fabulous photos and news of your travels.
Thank you, Janeen