Our first trip away from Edinburgh was to the Isle of Skye, renowned for its spectacular mountainous landscapes. Our journey started at 8 o’clock with the anticipation of arriving at our accommodation by about 4 o’clock. Unfortunately, we missed that time by a few hours.
The Road to Skye
On the way we had a few stops, including Fort William for a snack lunch, and were on schedule until, one hour from our destination we came to a stop behind a long queue of cars. We shortly got word there had been a vehicle accident and it would be a couple of hours before we could move again. After 90 minutes the news was that it would take at least 5 hours to clear, leaving us no option but to take the three hour detour. We arrived at 8 o’clock, feeling weary after the additional 200 miles of driving.
To compound our frustration, we received a message that our much anticipated next day boat trip to Canna to see the Puffins was cancelled. Fortunately, we managed to re-arrange this for our third day on the island, but even that took an unexpected turn.
Skye road trip
We decided our first day would be driving round the island to take in a few key highlights.
Our first stop was Portree, mainly to see the coloured houses adjacent to the harbour.
Mission accomplished, we intended to travel anti-clockwise, but a missed turn took us in the opposite direction and ended up in Uig.
This is a busy terminal for ferries to the Outer Hebrides. We braved the cold windy weather to walk down to the end of the pier where a ferry was due, but it didn’t arrive until we were on the road again. The pottery was also worth a visit, if only to get some warmth.
The road further north was a twisting steep climb, but worth the views back across Uig and to the north. On the way to our next stop, the ruins of Duntulm Castle, we stopped for a packed lunch at a rickety picnic table that looked like it would collapse at any moment. Parking space at the side of the road adjacent to the castle track was at a premium, the coffee van adding to the popularity of this remote spot. The castle was perched on a high cliff with picturesque views across the Sound of Shiant.
Turning south our next stop on the east coast of Skye was Kilt Rock and the Mealt Waterfall. The drive north had been relatively quiet, but here we were surrounded by tourists, some enjoying the busking piper in full highland regalia.
A few miles further down the road, we were planning to walk up to the Old Man of Storr, a 55-meter-high basalt rock pinnacle on the Trotternish Ridge. The extensive car park was almost full, but we managed to find a spot. The hike to the base of the rock is a 3.8 km round trip, all uphill with some steep portions. By the time we arrived neither of us felt inclined to tackle the whole walk, but we managed a few meters – without seeing the rock. However, on the drive away, we found a small layby with a view back towards the rock.
One last stop was to an Otter Hide before dinner. The road was most interesting and challenging on account of it being a single track, many tight bends and many steep inclines – it was slow going. When we arrived, we still had a 2 km walk from the car park to the hide, only to be disappointed at the total absence of otters.
Leitir Fura
We woke the next day to overcast low clouds and rain. Undeterred, we drove the short distance to the car park marking the start of a 7.5 km circular walk to the abandoned village of Leitir Fura in the Kinloch Forest.
The track rose to a height of 170 m through dense trees and shrubs on both sides, all of which were dripping wet and obscuring the view across to the Isle of Ornsay and the Sleat Peninsula. Leitir Fura was occupied by tenants employed to look after the forest for their landlord until poverty and harsh living conditions took their toll in the 1800s. When we arrived at the village, which was no more than overgrown piles of rocks, the rain had stopped and the skies transformed into heavy bulging dark clouds to give us the sort of views we had anticipated.
Fairy Pools
After lunch of bacon and eggs at our accommodation, our next objective was visiting the Fairy Pools. The road was, once again, single track with little traffic. It was therefore a surprise to arrive at a busy car park and be greeted by throngs of tourists. From the car park the Fairy Pools were clearly visible as was the 1.5 km to walk down to the start of the cascades and then up to the top. The cascades were a series of amazing waterfalls, fast flowing shallow water and calm deep pools (which one brave woman decided to take a dip in). By the time we arrived back at the car we were both exhausted, nothing that a log fire and dinner back at the accommodation couldn’t fix. Apart from that we had our re-scheduled boat trip and puffin viewing to look forward to.
Our Boat Trip
Leaving early to drive to Elgol, our departure point, we had mixed feelings. It was cold and windy and, by the time we arrived at the jetty, it was raining, which didn’t seem to bother the local cows. However, we paid our fare and waited along with a number of others for the boat to be brought in for us to board. Almost 30 minutes behind schedule we casted off and motored out of the harbour. After about 10 minutes, we heard an alarm and were quickly told that there was a problem with the engine and we would have to turn back – boat trip cancelled! We were actually relieved as we would not have seen many puffins anyway due to the closed in weather conditions.
It was miserable weather, so we headed back to the accommodation for lunch and shelter. The rain stopped mid-afternoon allowing us to drive to the Broadford supermarket. Our evening was spent organising cases for leaving in the morning.
So, with our Isle of Skye visit over and the prospect of one more exciting highlight on the way back to Edinburgh, we left via Plockton, a brief stop at Eilean Donan and a coffee stop at Glengarry.
Badger watch
We arrived at our hotel in Newtonmore for an early check. This gave us time for a short rest before leaving to visit the RSPB nature reserve at Loch Garten. After spending time at the visitor centre to view the Ospreys (which we only saw on camera), we enjoyed a walk through the reserve and drove back to Boat of Garten for dinner. Eating out this evening had the purpose of being close to our rendezvous point for a pre-booked badger hide visit. This was something we had hoped to do on our last visit, so we were delighted that it was going ahead.
This was a personal outing led by volunteer, Kate, to a hide on private property which turned out to be a redundant fisherman’s shack. It was a spectacular evening, sitting inside with the setting sun behind us and hearing about the life of the badger. After about half an hour the first badger appeared, and then another. They wandered down a track to within a couple of metres of the hide, so we were able to get a good few photographs through the window. With a further two badgers making an appearance, this was a very special, memorable evening, making up for the disappointment of the cancelled boat trip.
Back to Edinburgh
Lunch the next day was at my brother’s in Kinross. As we had plenty of time to drive there, we took a small detour to another RSPB reserve near Dunkeld, Loch of the Lowes. Here, K succeeded in photographing her much sought after Woodpecker and we both witnessed a male Osprey diving for lunch and flying it back to the distant nest. As we left, we were treated to sighting a red squirrel.
After lunch and returning to Edinburgh, our thoughts turned to our next trip – catching up with our canal boat friends in England.
If you would like to be notified of my posts when they are published, please subscribe below, unless you have already done so.
7 Responses
Martin I ve never been to Isle of Skye your post makes me want to go ! Thanks again for sharing.
It is a photographers dream – the landscapes are amazing whatever the weather.
Very informative blog thanks Martin. Beautiful photos
Thank you Karen
Despite the weather and things not going according to plan, I hope you are enjoying your trip. Good photos too.
Hi Ruth, thank you
Fabulous photos of a beautiful place. I was only there for a couple of nights and had great weather – although, of course it was cold!